Dr. Sudath Gunasekara

Sept.5.2009.

It was the 5th day of September year 2009. It was the day on which I descended 850 feet deep down in to the interior of the earth for the first time in life. Among my companions were my wife, son-in law and Nishanthi, the six year little girl, in a group of about thirty people of different ages, ranging from year old to, late seventies, who had come from different parts of the USA, conducted by a tour guide of the Carlsbad National Park Service ranger.

Incidentally this adventurous tour to the interior also took place 7 days after two nights and two days we spent in a mansion belonging to the Hon Consular General of NM for Sri Lanka, Dr. Althea Gray, on her extraordinary mansion on a mountain called Santa Fe is the Sangre de Cristo Mountain Range at 8200 feet above sea level near Santa Fe (The Blessed City), the beautiful capital city of the New Mexico State.

Mount Adams 13,491 ft a beautiful peak on Santa Fe is the Sangre de Cristo Mountain Range that reminds me of our Adams Peak

These two thrilling and unforgettable achievements in my life within a week was a true adventure.

According to official sources this natureƒÆ’‚¢ƒ¢-¡‚¬ƒ¢-¾‚¢s wonder Carlsbad Caverns holds the record for the second largest cave chamber in the world, the Big Room, a natural limestone chamber which is almost 4,000 feet (about 1,219 m) long, 625 feet (190.5 m) wide, and 350 feet (about 107 m) high at the highest point. The largest in the world is the Sarawak Chamber in Malaysia. Cave tour routes wind through the chambers of Carlsbad Cavern. Only a part of the cave can be viewed on public tours. Beyond these passages are more underground rooms, many of them exquisitely decorated by nature? Altogether more than 30 miles of caves have been explored. The deepest chamber is 1,027 feet below the surface.

Located in the Guadalupe Mountains in south western New Mexico, State USA, this is only one among 100 other caverns found on this mountain range. It is annually visited by 700,000 and an approximate annual income of US$ 5.6 m from tickets alone (at US$ 8 per person, the present rate) is said to be collected as revenue by the New Mexico State Government. This is of cause in addition to the income collected from other sources like hotels and numerous establishments that thrive on this industry.

A view of the western landscape from outside the entrance to the main caverns

Carlsbad Caverns National Park showcases one of the most spectacular collections of caves anywhere in the world. Protecting over 100 caves with intricate stalactite and stalagmite formations, Carlsbad Caverns was once the site of a complex ocean reef. Long after the waters receded, the area experienced a geologic uplift when the Guadalupe Mountains were formed, which disrupted the buried limestone reef and allowed for water to percolate through the sedimentary layers. Eons of undisturbed water erosion has created the caves, amphitheaters, tubes, and stalactite and stalagmite formations (some pushing 60 feet in size) including Lechuguilla Cave which is the deepest limestone cave in the United States at 1,567 feet.

The Carlsbad Caverns were lightly explored over the past 1000 years by the Native Americans, though they were not deeply studied until the turn of the 20th century. Pioneer interest was sparked in the caves due to their rich deposits of bat guano near the entrances as guano mining was a lucrative activity for several years before transportation costs outweighed the effort to harness this resource. Jim White was the first white man to discover these caves. The White city near the caverns has been named after him. He explored many of the rooms and gave them their names, including the Big Room, New Mexico Room, King’s Palace, Queen’s Chamber, Papoose Room, and Green Lake Room. Even from a young age, White explored the caverns with his homemade wire ladder. When he grew older, most of the people didn’t even believe such caves existed. He also named many of the cave’s more prominent formations, such as the Totem Pole, Witch’s Finger, Giant Dome, Bottomless Pit, Fairyland, Iceberg Rock, Temple of the Sun, and Rock of Ages.

The primary attraction of the park for most visitors is the show cave, Carlsbad Caverns. Visitors to the cave can hike in on their own via the natural entrance, or take the elevator (the exit for everyone) directly to the Underground Lunchroom some 750 feet (230 m) below. The park entrance is located on US Highway 62/180approximately 18 miles (29 km) southwest of Carlsbad, New Mexico

. The Cave – A Journey Underground

Your encounter with Carlsbad Caverns National Park begins in the Chihuahuan Desert of the Guadalupe Mountains. But beyond the somewhat familiar surroundings of rugged mountains and broad plains is another world. Away from the sunlight, away from the flowering cactus, away from the songs of the desert birds and the howl of the coyote lies the celebrated underground world of Carlsbad Cavern. It is an incomparable realm of gigantic subterranean chambers, fantastic cave formations and extraordinary features. The first adventurers entering Carlsbad Cavern had no idea what to expect as they walked, crawled and climbed down into the darkness. Today many of the wonders of Carlsbad Cavern are well known, yet the experience of exploring its chambers is every bit as exciting

Kings Chamber: Listening to a lecture by the Guide

Exploring the Caves

Visitors wishing to explore Carlsbad Caverns may select from three main tour options depending on their time, interests and physical ability. Two of these options follow self guiding routes. The third is a ranger guided tour.

Your first stop for any cave tour is the visitor center information desk, where rangers can answer tour questions and you may purchase tickets. The basic entry fee allows access to either, or both self guiding tour routes. Rangers at the information desk can provide current information on special ranger activities, and they can tell you about wild cave tours that may be available, staff permitting.

Big Room Route

The basic tour through Carlsbad Cavern is the Big Room Route, a one mile, self guiding, underground stroll around the perimeter of the largest room in the cave, the Big Room. Taking approximately one hour, this circular route passes many large and famous features including Bottomless Pit, Giant Dome, Rock of Ages and Painted Grotto. Highly decorated and immense, the 14 acre Big Room is a “must see” tour for all visitors to the park. Access to the Big Room is provided by elevators located in the visitor center. The relatively level and well lighted trails make this the ideal tour for visitors with limited time or walking difficulties. The Big Room is accessible to wheelchairs, with a special map available at the visitor center information desk.

Natural Entrance Route

The Natural Entrance route is a self guiding tour available to visitors with plenty of time and in good physical condition. This one mile tour follows the traditional explorer’s route, entering the cavern through the large historic natural entrance. The Natural Entrance route descends more than 750 feet into the earth following steep and narrow trails through a tall and spacious trunk passage call the Main Corridor. The route culminates in the underground rest area, near the elevators and the Big Room route starting point. Visitors in good health who plan to take both self guiding tours may enjoy starting with the Natural Entrance route. Highlights along this route include Bat Cave, Devil’s Spring, Green Lake Overlook and the Boneyard, a complex maze of highly-dissolved limestone rock reminiscent of Swiss cheese. Visitors should watch for Iceberg Rock, a single 200,000 ton boulder that fell from the cave ceiling thousands of years agoƒÆ’-¡ƒ”š‚ 

Carlsbad natural Cavernš‚ amphitheater Photo: Ernest Rockwell 5.9.2009

Hall of the White Giant

This is a strenuous, challenging tour to a remote chamber in Carlsbad Caverns. You will be required to crawl long distances, squeeze through tight crevices and climb up slippery flowstone-lined passages. Bring your own gloves, knee pads and four new AA batteries.

Kings Palace Guided Tour

Queens Chamber: Photo: Sudath Gunasekara

A third option is the Kings Palace tour, a 1.5 hour ranger guided tour through four highly decorated scenic chambers. Departing from the underground rest area, the Kings Palace tour descends to the deepest portion of the cavern open to the public, 830 feet beneath the desert surface. Although not as difficult as the Natural Entrance route, the one mile tour does require descending and later climbing an eight story hill. Look forward to viewing a variety of speleothems or cave decorations including helectites, draperies, columns and soda straws. Rangers frequently conduct black-out programs during this tour, briefly turning off all artificial lights to reveal the permanent inky blackness of the natural cave environment. Reservations required for the Kings Palace Tour may be obtained at the information desk. A separate fee is charged for this tour. On the 5th we covered the entire length of this wonderful dream world. You can just imagine the awe and horror one would get when all the lights are turned off in a dark cave inside the earth at a depth of 850 feet below the surface

On the way to the Natural Cave 5.9.2009 Photo: Ernest Rockwell

All trails in the cave are paved and adequately lighted. Visitors should wear comfortable, closed toe shoes with rubber soles for maximum safety and traction. The cave temperature varies little from the annual 56ƒÆ’-¡ƒ”š‚° F average, making a sweater or light jacket appropriate year round. Visitors may also wish to bring a camera and a flashlight. Strollers are Not Allowed in any underground cave areas, but infant backpacks are permitted. A pre-tour restroom stop is advisable because restrooms are only available in the visitor center and underground rest area. All tours are preceded by a mandatory cavern orientation briefing to promote resource protection and cavern safety. Visitors on all tours exit the cave by elevator. The rest are which is at the bottom of the elevator is 750 feet from the surface level. The rest area is also provided with a cafeteria and a shopping complex where visitors can buy souvenirs.

Rangers are available throughout the cave to assist visitors with information, answer questions and protect park resources. On both self guiding tours, “Cavern Guide” message players provide visitors with interesting, in-depth information about ecology, history and cave information.

Big Room, photo byƒÆ’-¡ƒ”š‚ Ansel Adams, c.1941

The first thing that came to my mind when the lights were turned off when we were inside the cavern at such a depth was of cause anxiety and horror. But later when the light returned it reminded me the story of Ummagga Jatakaya that we learned in the fifth std. in school.